3 days in Drôme provençale

Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes/2023

Some summer days, heat is a color. The sun crashes down on the ochre stone and bounces off the intense lavender sky. The Drôme provençale is not quite Provence, but it already heralds the sinuous Baronnies and the dense Luberon. Between the Rhône and the hills, the villages are wells of inspiration for painters and poets, watched over in the distance by the muted shadow of Mont Ventoux.

Saint-Paul-Trois-Châteaux is a medieval gem to be explored on foot, discovering its beautiful old stones, from the Place de l'Esplan to the Place du Marché. This is where the hustle and bustle gathers, intense in summer and quieter out of season. Also worth seeing are the cathedral, the canonical quarter, the town houses and the archaeological museum. For a tasty treat, we'll of course stop off at the Maison de la truffe et du Tricastin, as the Drôme is the leading producer of the black diamond, with a local AOC, the Tricastin black truffle. The next part of our tour will delight vineyard enthusiasts. Head for Suze-la-Rousse, 15 minutes to the south, and its famous and unique wine university. The medieval château overlooking the village provides a prestigious backdrop. Founded in 1978, the establishment offers a wide range of short and long courses throughout the year in all areas of oenology, and awards university and professional diplomas. An opportunity to discover Grignan-les-Adhémar, which has replaced Coteaux-du-Tricastin since 2010. For some winegrowers, the former appellation was too reminiscent of the nearby power station... On the way to Grignan, you can make a detour to Chamaret and its medieval tower, a slender keep dating from the 12th century and dominating the region, which is open to visitors and hosts exhibitions in season. A little further afield, at the La Chevrette du Cabanon breeding farm, you can stock up on farmhouse cheeses made from raw milk, available from mid-March to December, produced on site by Rachel and Angelo. Whether it's the conjunction of the stars, the alignment of the planets or a cultural past, we don't know, but in terms of appeal to city dwellers more bourgeois than bohemian, Grignan crushes the competition. With its artists' and craftsmen's studios, its galleries, its guest houses and its favorite addresses of the Parisian press, it's familiar territory. Devotees of Gordes and Lourmarin, hampered by a Luberon that's a little too crowded, will find this an ideal retreat. Grignan is chic, yet modest and not yet stuffy. Grignan is also home to Madame de Sévigné and Philippe Jaccottet, who spent forty years of his life here, until his death two years ago. The poet's home is very close to the Renaissance-style Château de Bussy-Rabutin, where Marie de Rabutin-Chantal, Marquise de Sévigné, spent many long stays. Her daughter, the recipient of most of her famous letters, married François Adhémar, Seigneur de Grignan. She died there in 1696, aged 70. Then on to Montélimar, an ancient city with all the charm of a traditional Provencal town. With its maze of alleyways and lively streets, the historic center forms a heart, framed by boulevards, the Roubion to the east and the public gardens to the west. Here, you can stroll around and do a little shopping. The halles are fairly modest, but there are some good food shops where you can sample the specialities, including the unmissable nougat. We leave Montélimar and its confectionery to head for Dieulefit. Lying on the banks of the Jabron, untouched by contemporary tourism, this small town has preserved its old-fashioned way of life. Few amenities, not even shops, and yet an old-fashioned charm, with no frills, and an ancestral specialty, pottery. At the entrance to the main street, the large, venerable building with the ancient inscription "Grands Magasins Universels", dating from 1896, is a monument to commerce. Then just wander off at random, take the steep staircases leading down from Rue du Bourg and you'll be transported back to another era, or head back down to the river for a little excitement. Nature lovers can continue their journey in the area around Dieulefit, particularly around Vesc, with its early lavender fields and rolling hills. From Dieulefit to Vesc, then from Vesc to Saoû, bike rides offer superb panoramic views of the mountain foothills. In Saoû, a popular summer village, you can enjoy the lively Saturday market or the farmers' market every Wednesday afternoon. And don't miss Le Poët-Laval, a Templar fortress. Almost unchanged since the Middle Ages, the village rises like a proud bastion above the greenery.