4 days in the Aravis massif

Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes/2023

It's a corner of the mountains that is the pride of all its inhabitants. Although the Aravis massif (be careful not to pronounce the final "s") is less well known than the Vanoise or Tarentaise, its family resorts are very popular, and the scenery is splendid.

Le Grand-Bornand, La Clusaz, La Giettaz... From Annecy, via Thônes, there are two possible routes to La Clusaz, via Saint-Jean-de-Sixt or Manigod. The most beautiful is undoubtedly the one that passes through the village of Manigod, then climbs to the Col de la Croix Fry, at an altitude of 1,470 m, before descending to the star resort. From here, you won't want to miss the other scenic wonder, the long climb up to the Col des Aravis, at around the same altitude as Croix Fry, at 1,485 m, with the road then plunging down towards La Giettaz and the Val d'Arly, with Megève in view. At the top of the pass, there's a breathtaking view of all the surrounding massifs, a large store where you can take home a stuffed marmot, and a number of welcome chalet inns. If there's one chef who knows the Aravis well, since he was born here, it's Marc Veyrat, the man in the black hat, whose family has branched out to create a number of flourishing businesses between Thônes and La Clusaz. At the top of the Col de la Croix Fry, he's at home. Jokingly, he points out the Mont-Blanc massif, which seems to be just around the corner as the crow flies. The peaks tangle together, and one peak seems to sit on top of another, forming a great "V". "It's the Veyrat V," exclaims the great Marco, twice Gault&Millau Chef of the Year, and forever the first and only bearer of a 20/20 in the Guide Jaune. "My grandfather was the first to install ski lifts at Croix Fry, right next to my parents' farm," he explains. This is now the Chalets-Hôtel de la Croix Fry, run by Marc's late sister Marie-Ange. It is now run by Isabelle Loubet, his daughter and Edouard's wife. My grandfather was a visionary," continues Marc Veyrat. In 1936, he transformed the farmhouse into a restaurant-buvette, like a guinguette. People came here to dance after their meal. He wanted it to be a happy, popular place. After I was born, in the 1950s, it became a lighthouse. Everyone came from Annecy and Megève. We made everything on the spot, our charcuterie with our pigs, our reblochon, and my mother cooked simple, wonderful things. This is how the history of the Aravis was written. In La Clusaz, people were already skiing. A mechanical cart carried people to the top of the slopes. Today, the ski area encompasses the Croix Fry, with 85 runs, 49 lifts and 125 km of the 210-km Aravis massif. And let's not forget cross-country skiing, for which Le Grand-Bornand is a veritable paradise, with 75 km of 12 loops and two biathlon areas, including an annual World Cup event. Last but not least, evenings by the fireside, reblochonnade and pormonier are a must for any complete stay in the Aravis. There's no shortage of good places to stay, and you'll feel totally at ease after a day in the mountains.