48 hours along the Côte Vermeille

Occitanie/2022

From Cerbère to Argelès-sur-Mer, a pretty necklace unwinds almost secretly, with three pearls: Banyuls-sur-Mer, Port-Vendres and Collioure. Along this coastal route of barely thirty kilometers, you'll discover what has been dubbed the Côte Vermeille. There's no mixture of gold and silver here: it's the schistose and iron rocks that give this winding, jagged coastline its distinctive hue.

All along this stretch of coastline, between rocky reliefs and vineyards, the Mediterranean features coves and beaches, ports and lighthouses, recalling the two main activities of this coastal strip: fishing and wine. Fishing, in particular, can be discovered at the Port-Vendres fish auction. You'll find all the blue fish, from sardines and mackerel to tuna and, of course, Collioure's famous anchovies. As for wine, it is estimated that the first vines were planted here three thousand years ago, and today there are two AOC wines, Banyuls and Collioure, and one IGP, Côte Vermeille. Banyuls has even had both an AOP Banyuls and an AOP Banyuls Grand Cru since 1962. In other words, this coastline knows how to be gourmet. Cerbère, at the gateway to Spain, received its first customs post in 1841 to thwart the activities of smugglers. The starting point for this tour is a pleasant little town with a major marine reserve protecting species over 650 ha, and a 250 m long underwater trail for snorkeling enthusiasts. Banyuls-sur-Mer is a gourmet jewel whose epicurean tradition is illustrated by the works of its beloved child, Aristide Maillol, a lover of life and women alike, to whom his hometown has dedicated a museum. You can also visit the aquarium in the heart of the resort, and the Mediterranean Garden at Mas de la Serre in the hills, which together form the Biodiversarium. Port-Vendres is the most important fishing port in the region, and its fish auction supplies many restaurants in Roussillon, Languedoc and beyond. The beautiful promenade around the port is the main attraction, but you can also admire the obelisk dedicated to Louis XVI, the Dome and the statue of Victory modeled by Maillol. Slightly set back, the hamlet of Cosprons is the gateway to the vineyards... The view of Collioure from Banyuls-sur-Mer is breathtaking. It's easy to understand why so many painters, such as Matisse, Braque and Picasso, wanted to capture the magic of this light... You can visit Notre-Dame-des-Anges and its bell tower, a true symbol of the town, the royal castle, the windmill planted on the heights... You can stroll along the port and climb just above it (by taking the steep Rue du Mirador, for example...) through the winding alleys with their uneven cobblestones, admiring the ochre tones of the houses with their flower-filled balconies, breathing in the soul of this unique town. Take rue Saint-Jean, rue de la Fraternité or rue de l'Égalité, for example. And, of course, rue de la Liberté... Cerbère, at the gateway to Spain, received its first customs post in 1841 to thwart the activities of the many smugglers. The starting point for this journey, Cerbère is a pleasant little town with a major marine reserve protecting species over 650 hectares, and a 250 m long underwater trail for snorkeling enthusiasts. Banyuls is a gourmet jewel whose epicurean tradition is illustrated by the works of its beloved child, Aristide Maillol, a lover of life and women alike, to whom his hometown dedicates a museum. The Aquarium is located in the heart of the resort, and the Jardin Méditerranéen de la Serra, on the higher ground, forms the "Biodiversarium". Port Vendres is the most important fishing port in the region, and its fish market supplies many restaurants in Roussillon, Languedoc and beyond. The lively promenade around the port is the main attraction, as are the obelisk dedicated to Louis XVI, the Dome and the Victory statue by Maillol. Slightly set back, the hamlet of Cosprons is the gateway to the vineyards... The view of Collioure from Banyuls is breathtaking. It's easy to understand why so many painters have sought to capture the magic of this light. You can visit Notre Dame des Anges and its bell tower, a veritable symbol of the town, the royal castle, the windmill planted on the heights... You can stroll along the port and climb just above it (rue du Mirador, for example, which is quite steep...), through the winding streets with their uneven cobblestones, admiring the ochre tones of the houses with their flower-filled balconies, breathing in the soul of this unique town. Look out for Rue Saint-Jean, Rue de la Fraternité or Rue de l'Egalité. And, of course, Liberté...