Gien: 200 years of earthenware and still good to eat

It all began in 1821, when Thomas Edme Hulm, alias Hall, a British industrialist far from chauvinistic, decided to take up the challenge of countering the wave of English imports threatening French industry. It has to be said that earthenware already ran in his veins. Since 1774, his family had run the earthenware factory in Montereau-Fault-Yonne, Seine-et-Marne. He himself acquired the Pont-aux-Choux earthenware factory in Paris, which had been abandoned for 30 years, like an adventurer bringing a forgotten treasure back to life.

Our entrepreneur, with a flair worthy of an Indiana Jones of know-how, chose the former convent of the Pères Minimes in Gien to set up a new "English-style" earthenware factory. This strategic choice was far from accidental. Gien is close to the Loire, a royal transportation route, and to the Orléans forest, an endless supply of wood for the kilns. Add to this an abundance of silica pebbles, and you have the perfect cocktail for an earthenware revolution. It was here that the history of a factory destined for worldwide renown was born.

The art of French savoir-vivre

Since 1830, Gien has been refining its secret recipe for fine earthenware. A magical blend of eleven different earths - five clays, four sands and two kaolins - finely ground and combined with North Sea pebbles, produces a unique slip. The result? Delicate yet robust pieces that rival English earthenware. With 850 tons of raw materials processed each year, production is resolutely 100% local, embodying the French art of living in all its splendor.

Creating a Gien piece is like orchestrating a symphony of meticulous steps. From paste preparation to firing in 38-meter-long tunnel kilns, each creation passes through the expert fingers of master earthenware makers. These craftsmen perpetuate 200-year-old gestures and know-how handed down from generation to generation, always reinvented with a constant concern for perfection. " Our master earthenware makers, who have been awarded the Ordre National des Arts et des Lettres, are constantly striving to magnify the material," confides Yves de Talhouët, the brand's new CEO.

The objects are decorated entirely by hand, using a variety of techniques, from chromolithography to more complex freehand-painted designs. Each creation bears the initials of the craftsman who fashioned it, adding a personal touch and making them prized collector's items.

In 1875, following a merger with Les Émaux de Briare, the factory officially adopted the name Faïencerie de Gien. This union enabled the company to develop the technique of cloisonné enamels, opening up new perspectives for its decorations and confirming its status of excellence.

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From the Universal Exhibition to the tables of the elite

When the Manufacture de Gien entered the World's Fairs, from Paris to Philadelphia, it was a festival of medals and awards. The great aristocratic families, such as the Counts of Noailles, the Baron de Mandell family of Scotland, the Count of Toulouse-Lautrec and the Count of Clermont-Tonnerre, rushed to order their exclusive services, engraved with their coats of arms.

And that's not all. Presidents of the Republic were also getting in on the act. Vincent Auriol, for example, ordered a service for the Château de Rambouillet, still in the Gien catalog today. More recently, pieces have been produced for the Château de Chambord, the Louvre Museum and the Château de Versailles.In this way, earthenware, once focused on utilitarian tableware, has become a veritable legend in the art of the table.

Gien in transport: from the Paris metro to the Orient-Express

Gien's influence extends beyond the table. In 1882, the earthenware factory began producing ceramic wall tiles, and in 1906 won the contract for the Paris metro. The result? The famous white, rectangular and bevelled tiles that line the walls and arches of the stations. This partnership, which lasted until 1980, made Gien a staple of Parisian architecture... and of many an urban bobo's bathroom. In 1933, Gien left its Parisian basements to take the luxury train. The Orient-Express, an icon of refined travel, ordered all its earthenware equipment from the factory. On board, immaculate earthenware plates, mugs and precious bathroom cabinets proudly display the WL logo of the Compagnie Internationale des Wagons-Lits.

Hard times and renaissance

The First World War brought an abrupt halt to the boom in Gien earthenware. Despite a resurgence in orders for decorated tableware in the 1920s, production declined. After the Second World War, the earthenware factory modernized its tools, but inferior production from other European countries put a strain on it, and the company filed for bankruptcy in 1983.

The company was taken over by a succession of new owners, each of whom made their own contribution, including joining the prestigious Comité Colbert in 1989. The earthenware factory was taken over by Yves de Talhouët (ex-CEO of Hewlett-Packard) in 2014. Under his leadership, Gien enters the 21st century with a clear vision: to modernize while preserving its heritage. The contribution of creators and designers such as Castelbajac or Patrick Jouin, the personalization of pieces or the launch of the "Les Dépareillées" range, a cheerful mix of plates that have fallen into disuse, are at the heart of the new strategy. With 8,000 digitized archive drawing plates and a strong commitment to eco-responsible practices, Gien is strengthening its position and testifying to this renewed dynamic.

4 questions to Kevin Stroh, chef at Auberge des Templiers in Boismorand

Originally from Alsace, Kevin Stroh took over the reins of the Auberge des Templiers (2 toques) in November 2023, bringing with him new energy and a passion for local produce. After impressing at Restaurant Lalique, where he honed his talent and won 2 toques, this young chef is reinventing French cuisine with a modern twist and plenty of creativity.

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How did you discover Gien tableware?

Kévin Stroh: Gien earthenware is world-renowned and a major player among the great names in tableware. What's more, we're lucky enough to have the faience factory just 15 km away! When I arrived at the Auberge des Templiers, I was immersed in the different collections over the years and the iconic worlds of Gien.

Do you have a Gien collection that you like to use for specific occasions or dishes?

K.S.: In the country setting of the Auberge, I like the "Les dépareillées" collection. We also use "Chevaux du Vent" a lot. At breakfast, we offer collections that change over the years. Finally, during the hunting season, I can't resist using the appropriate collections for game. The diversity of the collections allows me to play with the dressings for my different dishes.

Do customers appreciate the use of Gien tableware at the Auberge?

K.S. : Often , customers have a family anecdote related to Gien earthenware that reminds them of a childhood memory with a parent or grandparent. They are always delighted to discover a Gien model they are not familiar with.