Domaine Castéra, a passion for Jurançon

" I'm starting my tenth vintage this year - time flies! "exclaims Franck Lihour, who took over from his parents Christian and Pierrette Lihour at the helm of Domaine Castéra in 2014. The family acquired the property in 1895, but the history of this estate in the Jurançon appellation dates back to 1743. The young winemaker first wanted to discover other wine-growing regions and countries before settling down: " I wanted to acquire a broad vision of the world of wine. So, after completing my BTS in viticulture and oenology, I went to Corsica, South Africa and Napa Valley. These experiences enriched me, and I came back to the domaine with my head full of ideas. "

Dry Jurançon has the wind in its sails

Jurançon is an appellation where mixed farming has been established for centuries: " Jurançon is a piedmont vineyard, with vines planted at the top of the slopes and other terroirs reserved for livestock or cereals. We've had the advantage of living with good farming sense for centuries and helping to maintain a sustainable ecosystem. "

Franck Lihour is part of a new generation of winemakers who know how to make the most of Jurançon's emblematic grape varieties, Petit and Gros Manseng, and their terroirs: " Our appellation is known for producing top-quality sweet wines, and we're proud of that, but we also create some very good dry wines. "Indeed, despite its small size - around 125 hectares - Jurançon has also made a name for itself among wine lovers thanks to some very fine dry wines: " Over the last five years, we've seen a qualitative evolution in our wines, coinciding with cleaner growing practices. It's also due to a shift in consumer trends away from sweet wines. For my part, I've focused on wines from purer terroirs with a stronger sense of identity. "

On the menu of the Pré Catelan

Domaine Castéra is mainly distributed in France through a circuit of wine merchants and restaurateurs: " I've had experience as a wine merchant and I'm convinced that this is the best way to introduce wines like ours, which are not known to the general public. We need influencers like them. "Franck Lihour is also very proud to see some of his cuvées featured on fine gourmet tables: " You can find our cuvées just as easily at the Pré Catelan [the Parisian restaurant of chef Frédéric Anton, 19/20 and 5 Gault&Millau toques, editor's note] as in fine bistros. The most important thing is to help people discover our wines, and to bring them to life. For the record, I recently received an Instagram message from an American living in Los Angeles who fell in love with one of my cuvées and asked me where to find it. I get up every morning to receive this kind of feedback. "Domaine Castéra's wines grow year after year, and we can't wait to taste Franck Lihour's tenth vintage.

2023, a complicated vintage

When it's not drought or lack of water, it's disease that spoils the grapes, and that's the case with Jurançon. In Béarn, the 2023 vintage followed in the footsteps of 2022, with high rainfall (1600 ml) and the appearance of mildew in the vines. The appellation's average yield was 11 hl/ha in 2023, whereas it allows up to 60 hl/ha for dry Jurançons alone. Consequently, in view of the low volumes produced, Domaine Castéra decided to make a single blend of all its parcels. The 2023 vintage is nonetheless qualitative, with less acidity than usual. That's reassuring. But you'll have to hurry to find one.