Mauro Colagreco in 5 dishes
Mauro Colagreco's Mirazur restaurant in Menton is on the verge of greatness. The chef takes us through 5 dishes that he believes have forged the reputation of his restaurant.
At the top of the Mirazur (4 toques), Mauro Colagreco explores nature with a rare creative freedom. From his base in Menton, this Argentinian-born chef celebrates the seasons, the cycles of life and the intimate dialogue between land and sea. For Gault&Millau, he looks back at five emblematic dishes, five creations that tell the story of his journey, his memories, his research and his culinary audacity. In words imbued with poetry, he reveals the secrets behind these signature dishes, in which"deep observation of the rhythms of nature" and"an artisanal approach to processing products" take the place of a manifesto. Between emotion, transmission and sustainable vision, here is the world of Mauro Colagreco in five dishes.
His proudest dish: Pear, Oyster and Borage
Mauro Colagreco came up with this iconic dish while trying to win over his wife Julia, who didn't like the taste of oysters. "Usually associated with lemon or acid notes, for this dish based around oysters, I wanted to explore the sweet roundness of a fruit instead." After several trials, the perfect balance was struck between the iodized oyster and the sweetness of the pear, underlined by borage flowers."The borage flowers give a touch of bright color to the dish and accentuate that iodized taste that reminds us of the taste of the sea on land." A bold exploration that has become, against all odds, one of his signature dishes.
The dish that marked a turning point in his career: Beetroot and Caviar
If there's one dish that captures the very essence of Mirazur's philosophy, it's this one."It has the power to reveal something essential about my cooking: a reverence for nature and a creative freedom that transcends categories." By combining humble beet and prestigious caviar, Mauro Colagreco redefines the codes of luxury and signs a striking creation."We let this beet grow for a year in the ground, then harvest it and put it under cover, covered with straw, in our cellar." The maturing process concentrates its sweet aromas, before an ancestral cooking process: in a crust of sea salt, like meat. A tribute to time, "the true luxury", and a plea for a gastronomy that respects natural rhythms.
A childhood memory: Le Pain de Partage
Before Mauro Colagreco began cooking for the world's top chefs, he grew up with the aroma of warm bread baked by his grandmother."Even before it came out of the oven, the smell of it baking always made our mouths water with its irresistible aromas." Today, he has made a ritual of it at Mirazur: homemade bread is the first food served to guests, accompanied by an olive oil with Menton lemon and ginger, created with his friends from Huilerie Saint Michel. It's a simple, universal gesture, a sign of warm, authentic hospitality from the very first bite.
The dish our customers voted for: Artichoke Tart
Created for the Menu Fleur, this artichoke tart draws on family memories and the chef's own inventiveness. "The memory of these very simple steamed artichokes and its petals dipped in a vinaigrette that my mother used to prepare came to mind." Reinterpreted by Mauro Colagreco, the dish evokes the artichoke in all its splendor: a petal-like construction around a generous sauce, reminiscent of"candied or long-cooked meats." Surprise and indulgence make this vegetal creation an undisputed favorite with diners.
The latest creation: Citron and Pigeon
for the Fête du Citron in Menton, Mauro Colagreco imagined an original alliance between pigeon and the immense Mediterranean citron."We're lucky enough to live in a village with a specific microclimate that's perfect for growing citrus fruit." This abundance gives rise to a vibrant dish: pigeon cooked in the fragrant citron skin, in a circular gastronomic approach."Looking at the size of the huge citrons we receive in our restaurant and their delicious fragrance, the idea of taking advantage of their skin and cooking a meat in it came to me." A technical challenge, where each unique fruit imposes its own cooking rhythm, and a dazzling ode to local agriculture.
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