L'Absinthe

35400 SAINT-MALO

11/20
Gourmet Restaurant

3 PHOTOS

Cooking French | Seafood | Traditional

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

29€ à 55€

Gault&Millau's review

11/20

Gourmet Restaurant Sheltered by the ramparts, this cosy 17th-century house on two levels offers a classic cuisine that's serious, meticulous and sometimes a little convoluted. The starter is a case in point: fresh mackerel is served (in tiny portions) in marinade, escabeche and fried. The execution is flawless. It's flanked by grilled octopus, avocado (sliced or guacamole) and beets. All in all, a multi-dimensional plate that whets the appetite. As for the next course, the whiting fillet, also soufflé, could do with a bit more streamlining, especially as the bone juice with "Chat-Malo" amber beer is a really good idea. On the other hand, while we understand the chef's idea, the rhubarb served on the side doesn't convince us of its usefulness. This time, rhubarb is aptly used to accompany a cardamom crème brûlée refreshed with a kalamansi sorbet. The short wine list has been put together by a connoisseur: brouilly from domaine Trichard (32€), chambolle-musigny from the excellent Rémi Jeanniard (2008 at 119€), chinon from Fabrice Gasnier, Crozes-Hermitage from domaine Colombier, menetou-salon from prieuré de Saint-Céols... Efficient, friendly service.

Plan

Address 1 Rue de l'Orme
35400 Saint-Malo

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Opening

Opened today

Monday Lunch Dinner

Tuesday Lunch Dinner

Wednesday Lunch Dinner

Thursday Lunch Dinner

Friday Lunch Dinner

Saturday Lunch Dinner

Sunday Lunch Dinner

People

Chef

Pastry Cook

Sommelier

Menu A la carte

Starter Jardin d’hiver du Petit Bé : chair de crabe, terreau de pain noir, croustillant et sorbet au thym, crémeux de carottes et condiments €12 Pêcheur et jardinier : tendre terrine de poisson, éclats de betterave rouge, coulis de tomates au saté et cocktail de légumes croquants €12 Délices du Périgord : Aiguillettes de canard et de volaille à l’huile de truffe en croûte de brioche, crème de céleri à la brisure de truffes €16 Cézanne à Challans : Foie gras mi-cuit, cubisme de porto, gelée et chutney de poire €16

Menus Formule €29 Elixir €36 La Belle Epoque €45 Quintessence €55