La Table Breizh Café

35260 CANCALE

14.5/20
Chef's Restaurant

6 PHOTOS

Chef Fumio Kudaka

Services Accomodation

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

125€

Gault&Millau's review

14.5/20

Chef's Restaurant In the Bertrand Larcher galaxy (the Breizh Café crêperies), this restaurant is a real UFO, with clearly stated gastronomic ambitions. It's also the expression of his passion for Japan. So, for a long time now, chef Raphaël-Fumio Kudaka has been in charge of Japanizing local resources and Bretonizing Japanese cuisine. In short, he is a champion of cultural fusion, which is evident from the moment you enter the dining room. A small, bright upstairs room at the end of the quay offers a panoramic view of the bay, in a calm, almost spiritual atmosphere, as if to immerse oneself better. Settle in at one of the low, light-wood tables under which you can slide - you'll need to take off your shoes first - or at the counter so you don't miss any of the food being prepared, and you're ready to embark. What's on the menu? The excellence of the products, the meticulousness of the compositions, the chiselled flavours, the disorientation of taste... Take, for example, the delicate Japanese buckwheat noodles ("soba") that link lobster and strips of chicken. The rhythm of the dish is set by a seaweed mustard coulis and a lively wasabi vinaigrette. Then, a meaty oyster and a pan-seared langoustine coiled in a chawanmushi flavored with a shellfish and vegetable broth. As for the "meat sequence", it begins with roasted duck breast from Challans (Maison Burgaud), superbly topped with a port wine jus de la presse enhanced by a coulis of negimiso (leeks and miso). Accompaniments include pan-fried early vegetables, butternut purée and a creamy mushroom fricassee. Next, the thighs are served in traditional dumplings ("tsukune"), highlighted by a ponzu sauce, grated daikon and a white cabbage and lemon preparation... Finally, the dessert is a skilfully orchestrated combination of apple, almond cream, black sesame, sake, shiokoji caramel coulis... A meal that can of course be accompanied by sake. However, the wine list is dense and attractive: mâcon village from domaine Robert-Denogent, chablis Pattes Loup, morgon Marcel Lapierre, loire from Noëlla Morantin, languedoc from Mas Foulaquier, condrieu from Simon Gastrein... Smiling, delicate service.

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