Alléno Paris – Pavillon Ledoyen

75008 PARIS

19/20
Exceptional Restaurant

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13 PHOTOS

Chef Yannick Alléno

Cooking French | Gastronomic | specialty

Services Click&Collect | Delivery Service | Private parking | To take away | Valet parking

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

295€ à 415€

Gault&Millau's review

19/20

Exceptional Restaurant The advantage of a large-scale establishment run by a chef of Yannick Alléno's stature is that he keeps a tight rein on everything, so as not to leave a single crumb to chance. And when he does delegate, it's because the bond of trust is total. So, in what is now more or less his heart's home, this splendid 19th-century pavilion on the edge of the Champs-Elysées, Gérard Barbin, in charge of the kitchens, is the diamond-shining interpreter of Allénienne cuisine. His garden of introductory vegetables, some cooked, some raw, others just caressed, with this celery and yellow wine extraction jelly making a smooth, harmonious binder, sets the standard for excellence. Porcini mushrooms are a forest in themselves, on a filberts croustade and juniper duxelles, a balance of fragrances, a telluric evocation of the undergrowth. Sometimes, this gustatory bliss takes on the air of the obvious. Cooking isn't all that complicated, if you have an exceptional product like the mussels from Morisseau. Lightly smoked, they cover the sea bass like velvet, then simply surround it with the juice of the famous mussels, emulsified with parsley butter. With a few little secrets, this too is a 19/20 dish. The Burgaud duck, massaged at length, spread out American-style, is marinated for a week with blackcurrant berries, fig leaves and juniper. The result is splendid and, in its classicism, completely innovative (crispy skin, melting texture of the duck, delicate, almost silky flesh, slight bitterness of the juniper, duck juice with just the right strength). Mathilda, the pastry chef, is up to the challenge with her revisiting of the marvelous, a prodigy of textures entangled in a balance of spider-like finesse. Top-notch service, supported by an efficient concierge service to prepare your evening in the best possible way, with details always meticulous (Lebastard farm butter, among others). A cellar of fine labels, rather expensive and not overly flamboyant, but well established on a powerful base of sure values with varied vintages and a wide panorama of world wines. The range by the glass is well thought-out, with some twenty propositions and eight prestige wines.

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