48 hours in Chamonix

Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes/2024

Megève, Saint-Moritz, Montgenèvre, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Chamonix-Mont-Blanc... the birthplace of winter sports remains uncertain. What is certain is that Chamonix played a major role in the conquest of uncharted peaks and the democratization of skiing. A legendary past that today blends with a more contemporary vision of the art of mountain living.

Chamonix communicates with the surrounding heights, including the roof of Europe, the immaculate peak of Mont Blanc. A playground for mountaineers and skiers since the 1930s, the Savoyard town never ceases to attract seasonal visitors, while its 8,500 inhabitants never tire of their high-altitude nest. Year-round residents include a large British community. The Mer de Glace was discovered by two Englishmen, William Windham and Richard Pococke, in 1741. But today, this majestic setting is under threat. To see for yourself, just take the famous red train that links Chamonix-Mont-Blanc to Montenvers, at an altitude of 1,913 metres. Here, the panorama of the Mer de Glace is breathtaking, but it also opens our eyes to the terrible reality of global warming. In Chamonix, a large number of hotels and inns bridge the gap between past and present, including the Auberge du Bois Prin, the refuge du Montenvers and the Hameau Albert 1er. Others, like La Prairie, have preserved their historic setting. Rustic and bucolic, this establishment was built in 1905 by Henri Claret-Tournier, a pioneer of the seasonal hotel business and tireless mountain guide - 99 Mont Blanc ascents! Tourism boomed after the Winter Olympics, which Chamonix hosted just 100 years ago, in 1924. In 1930, two sections of the Brevent cable car were built. However, it wasn't until 1955 that the most spectacular, the Aiguille du Midi, opened up access to the Vallée Blanche. The credo of the Chamoniards is to criss-cross mountains and valleys and blend into the ever-changing landscape. Skiing here is more technical and more athletic than elsewhere. The great strength of Chamonix is that it is a year-round town, with thriving commerce from January to December. A great asset for culinary inspiration. Some draw their inspiration from the rock, while others cultivate this fertile soil to nourish body and mind. The energies of Switzerland and Italy cross borders and the blend of cultures resonates, to the point of inviting itself into the kitchens of local chefs who, as unconditional lovers of the land, keep this mountain cuisine alive. They don't hesitate to revive old transalpine traditions, such as canederli (balls of stale bread). Even if the snowflakes fail to fall, the gourmet delights so dear to the Savoyards will not be lost, nor will the cheese cease to melt or disappear from the shelves and cast-iron casseroles. Reblochon, raclette, tomme de Savoie, these names ring true and warm you up. To accompany them, Savoy white wine and génépi will always be welcome at the table and in moments of conviviality. As awareness grows, so does interest in the culinary professions: bakers, chocolatiers, knife makers and "new blood" chefs proudly share their particularity and respect for nature. Chamonix, with its history etched in stone, its peaks that merge with the sky, its immortal forests and its rebellious wildlife, is ideal for epicureans and lovers of powder snow and beautiful landscapes alike. There can be as many as 60,000 visitors in winter, and 100,000 in summer. And when the sun shines, being only 1,035 metres above sea level is an undeniable advantage. C. E.