The Brière Marshes

Centre-Val de Loire - Pays de la Loire/2022

We leave Saint-Nazaire to cross the Brière marshes and then descend to La Baule. Oscillating between the marshes and the ocean, this itinerary allows us to discover the gastronomic diversity associated with a particularly rich natural environment.

From Saint-Nazaire, head north to Saint-Malo-de-Guersac, the gateway to the Brière Regional Nature Park. Created in 1970, and associated with the Grande Brière, a marsh of almost 7,000 ha, the largest in France after the Camargue, it extends over 21 communes and is as rich in ornithological as it is in plant life. Its biodiversity is a subject of study and curiosity, and many traditional trades are still attached to it: thatching the typical marsh dwellings and, of course, salt mining, all around Guérande. Last but not least, gastronomic traditions are still very much alive here: frogs, eels and snails are still the staples of classic Briéronne recipes. From Saint-Malo-de-Guersac, it's on to Saint-Joachim, an adorable village with thatched cottages and the Ile de Fédrun, a veritable observation post for the entire marsh. Peat is traditionally harvested here for domestic heating. Saint-Joachim is also home to Éric Guérin's beautiful Auberge de La Mare aux Oiseaux, a charming haven perfectly integrated into the landscape. From Saint-Joachim, drive along the ponds to La Chapelle-des-Marais on the D50. Don't be swayed by contradictory signs suggesting another route recommended for cyclists, which offers welcome peace and quiet, but is of limited tourist interest. Along the way, however, you'll be able to get close to the ponds and marshes, preferably on foot, via paths known as "curées", as they often had to be drained to make them passable. In La Chapelle, you can have a drink and a bite to eat at Le Colibri, schedule permitting. From La Chapelle, it's on to Saint-Lyphard, the park's other major town. Here you can admire the Saint-Lyphard church and its pink bell tower. Climb it, if you can, for one of the best views of the marsh. There are also two Paleolithic sites in the commune: Kerbourg, with its two dolmens, and Mézerac, with its 3 m-high menhir set into the ground. We have a drink at Gaélic's Pub to regain our strength. Nearby, don't miss a visit to the picturesque village of Kerhinet, a life-size concentration of the Park's 18 fully restored thatched cottages. The Maison du Parc will provide you with all the information you need on Brie's heritage and some great ideas for walks. At La Chaumière des saveurs et de l'artisanat, you'll find everything made by local craftsmen for drinking, eating and decorating... a local produce market is held here every Thursday in summer. From Kerhinet, take the D48 to Saint-Molf, then the D52 to Mesquer, leaving the marshland behind to reach the ocean. From Mesquer, you reach La Turballe, a major fishing port and popular beach resort. La Turballe has also long been renowned for its sardines. Unfortunately, the last cannery closed its doors in 1987. Oysters and mussels are also produced. From La Turballe, you'll reach Guérande and its well-preserved 15th and 16th century ramparts. The Porte Saint-Michel, now fully restored, bears witness to the town's importance in medieval times. Finally, a museum provides an insight into local history and heritage. Indeed, Guérande's history is closely linked to the exploitation of salt, with salt marshes stretching over 2,000 hectares across the entire peninsula. From Guérande, you'll reach Batz-sur-Mer and its Salt Marsh Museum, then Le Croisic, another famous fishing port on the peninsula, at its extreme tip. Return along the coast to Le Pouliguen and then La Baule, the most chic and lively resort on the West Coast, with its 7 km of fine sandy beaches, its Barrière palaces and its romantic, timeless atmosphere.