A day in Andorra

Occitanie/2024

Andorra, so near, so far. Every day, coaches pour tourists from all over France into this tiny Pyrenean enclave. Every day, cross-border commuters from Ariège and Pyrénées-Orientales make the round trip via Pas de la Case or La Seu d'Urgell. The former scatter through the pedestrian lanes of Les Escaldes to buy tax-free cigarettes, perfumes and skincare products, while the latter fill up their tanks.

The savings are considerable (up to 60% on cosmetics, 70% on cigarettes, around 25% on petrol), but the journey, only possible by road, is no mean feat either. It takes two hours from Foix and almost three from Perpignan to reach the principality, via a mountain road that is certainly made easier by the latest tunnels, but which passes at over 2,000 meters at the Pas de la Case and the Col d'Envalira - special equipment is required seven months out of the year. Despite this, almost 8 million visitors pass through this 468 km2 territory every year, which, in relation to the surface area of the two countries, represents almost a hundred times the influx of tourists to France... Yet comparison is not reason. Andorra is neither Dubai nor Singapore. It's not a hub of international trade, nor a jet-set hangout. Just a small Pyrenean territory, with its mountain charm, family-friendly ski resorts and medieval capital, Andorra la Vella (Andorra la Vella), home to around 20,000 inhabitants and Europe's highest capital at over 1,000 meters above sea level. Why come to Andorra? Because, despite the commercial overflow of a popular market, there's something unique and timeless here, no doubt due to the fact that the principality, founded in 1278 by an agreement between the Count of Foix and the Bishop of Urgell, has survived the centuries without major upheaval. The cohabitation of this fleeting, futile mass tourism with Andorran traditions is easy to grasp. Les Escaldes, the commercial mushroom farm with its pedestrian walkways, numerous hotels and international brands, is obviously the place to be. On the other side of the Valira river, the capital is quite picturesque, with its main street almost unchanged for half a century, leading to the historic center with its stone houses and winding alleys. From Plaça de la Vall, with its 15th-century "Casa", there's a superb view of the city, and of the "seven poets" seated on their 10-metre-high columns, an astonishing work by Jaume Plensa, even more beautiful in the evening, each form taking on a different hue of mauve, yellow, green... Below, lively bars and restaurants line the banks of the river. A trip to the mountains? You can ski at Pas de la Case and Soldeu, the principality's chic resort, which is neither Courchevel nor St. Anton, keeping its simple allure and accessible offering. Then there's Ordino Arcalís, the most Andorran of the resorts (2,000-2,600 meters, 30 runs, 16 lifts), above El Serrat, which can be reached by a lovely road passing through La Massana, Ordino and that little gem of Llorts with its proud stone houses. And of course, all summer long, you can take advantage of the hiking trails to admire pretty chapels, fountains and the splendors of nature. The circuit des refuges (Coronallacs, a difficult loop) offers spectacular panoramic views, while the Sorteny nature park, accessible to all, is home to almost 800 species of flowers and plants.