Gravlax trout at Arbre de Vie

Loïc Deletraz, chef at L'Arborescence, proposes an original recipe based on Terroir Café 73's "L'Arbre de Vie" infusion.

This recipe from Loïc Deletraz, chef at L'Arborescence restaurant in Cercier, is taken from the 2024 edition ofLivre 109: Le sang neuf de la gastronomie française. Discover the ingredients and preparation steps to make it a breeze.

Serves 8
Preparation time: 1 h 30
Cooking time: 45 min
Resting time: 15 h

Ingredients for Trout gravlax with "Arbre de Vie" by Loïc Deletraz

For the trout gravlax

1 whole trout, 1 kg
1 kg coarse salt
300 g sugar
1 orange
1.5 g cloves
4 g juniper berries
8 g green anise
3 g star anise
4.5 g cinnamon
5 g coriander
3 g Sichuan pepper

For the arak granita

15 cl Arak
300 g trout trimmings
100 g carrots
80 g onions
80 g leeks
2 bay leaves
5 g salt

For theL'Arbre de Vie whippedcream

250 g 35% cream
1 lemon
1 leaf gelatin
2.5 g Espelette pepper and salt blend
25 g L'Arbre de Vie infusion (Terroir Café 73 )

For the L'Arbre de Vie jelly

20 g "L'Arbre de Vie" infusion (Terroir Café 73)
1.5 g agar-agar
2 g salt

For decoration

Breadcrumbs (in unsliced bread)
Nasturtium leaves
Marigold and cornflower flowers
Lemon zest
Olive oil
Flower of salt
Espelette pepper

Steps for Truite gravlax à l'Arbre de Vie by Loïc Deletraz

Scale and gut the trout (keep the trimmings: head, bones, tail). Remove (or remove) the two fillets. In a bowl, run cold water over the trimmings for 15 min. Drain and set aside in a cool place. Remove the bones from the fillets.
Gravlax (the day before): mix coarse salt, sugar, orange zest and spices. Pour a thin layer into the bottom of a dish, arrange the trout fillets, then pour the rest of the mixture on top. All the fish should be covered. Keep refrigerated for 11 h.
Rinse fillets under running water and place on a kitchen towel in the fridge for 4 h (to dry).
Slice the fillets (approx. 20 slices per fillet) and set aside on a clingfilm-covered plate in a cool place.
Granité d'Arak (6 h before serving): finely chop the vegetables and sweat them in olive oil in a casserole for 10 min over low heat, without browning, adding the bay leaves.
At the same time, crush the trout trimmings, add them to the casserole and cook for a further 5 min.
Deglaze the stock with the Arak, reduce by half and add 1 l of water. Cover and simmer for 30 min.
Pour the stock into a colander lined with a clean, damp tea towel over a flat bowl to obtain a clear liquid. Allow to cool before placing in the freezer for 6 h. Once frozen, scrape the surface to obtain a granita. Store in a tin in the freezer.
Prepare the Arbre de Vie whipped cream: pour 90 g of cream into a saucepan, add the infusion and bring the mixture to the boil, then leave off the heat for 10 min. Stir in the gelatine before the mixture cools.
Pour the remaining cream into a bowl, add the lemon zest and juice, salt and Espelette pepper, and beat with a mixer. Using a fine sieve, fold the first mixture into the second.
Chill in the fridge for 15 min, then whip the cream to a smooth consistency. Store in a tin in the fridge.
Prepare the Tree of Life jelly: in a saucepan, combine 25 cl water, salt and infusion and bring to the boil, then leave to infuse for 10 min off the heat.
In a second saucepan, strain the infusion through a fine sieve, whisk in the agar-agar and boil for 20 seconds. Line the bottom of a dish (the surface should be smooth), and pour the infusion over it. Leave to set for a few minutes. Once the mixture has turned to jelly, use a cookie cutter (or glass) to circle 8 pieces. Set aside in a cool place on a film-covered plate.
To decorate: remove the crust from the bread and place in the freezer for 30 minutes. Using a knife, cut 16 thin slices, then place them on an oven tray between two sheets of baking paper, lightly seared with olive oil. Bake for 7 min at 160°C (th. 5/6).
Arrange a circle of jelly in the center of the plate, creating two dots of cream (using a quenelle or piping bag) on either side. Roll up 5 slices of trout and place around it. Break open the slices of bread, sprinkle with the flowers and leaves, add a dash of olive oil, a pinch of fleur de sel and Espelette pepper. Insert the Arak granita at the very last moment to prevent it from melting.

For further information

L'Arborescence, 22 route d'Allonzier, 74350 Cercier
12/20 in the Livre des 109
Read Gault&Millau's review of L' Arborescence

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