Villa Archange

06110 LE CANNET

17.5/20
Prestige Restaurant

BOOK

9 PHOTOS

Chef Bruno Oger

Cooking French | Gastronomic | Local | specialty

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

115€ à 370€

Gault&Millau's review

17.5/20

Prestige Restaurant He could be awarded the Palme d'Or, the Prix du Jury and other similar accolades, but nothing would disturb the serene soul of top chef Bruno Oger. The Lorient native, with his strong Breton spirit, stays focused on the essentials: the finest local produce and those from his diagonal Breton region, barely transformed by the action of fire. And for added serenity, far from the glitz and glamour of the Croisette, the Oger family has taken up residence in Le Cannet, in these ancient bastides built opposite each other by two sisters who, according to legend, loved the same man... And since it's all about love, the chef shows it in every one of his dishes, starting with his masterpiece, abalone from the island of Groix in marinière and parsley with beurre blanc and fricassee of local artichokes. Definitely the most Breton of Mediterranean dishes, with nicely sized abalone, massaged before cooking so as not to stress them, simply accompanied by this lightly iodized samphire sauce and small, still-crisp artichokes, all this year topped with a thin buckwheat galette that adds its share of crunch, as if to echo one of his homemade breads, puff pastry with smoked haddock, samphire and bottarga. This is followed by a dish that the chef recently inaugurated, and which he would like to hear about when he visits at the end of the service: veal with braised sweetbread, marinated sucrine heart and anchovy butter jus. A slap in the face! That's it for the hot opinion. Let's take it a step further, with four gourmet elements on the plate: a thick piece of veal with a perfect geometric shape, simply marked on the grill; a generous sweetbread, braised for a few moments and lacquered with its juice, topped with an anchovy butter crumble; a heart of sucrine marinated in vinegar; and a puff pastry potato stuffed with kidneys cooked with onion confit. The magic happens when the maître d'hôtel pours this demi-glace sauce reduced to equilibrium, flavored with an anchovy butter that gives a touch of the sea to this earthy dish. Sauce, please! With these emotions behind him, it's pastry chef Yohan Jara's turn to move us with his chocolate proposal, Guanaja dark chocolate brioche shells that host a praline and chocolate mousse with a dark chocolate sauce, all condimented with a mustard, prune and date gel that's best eaten with every bite. The second plate features milk chocolate ice cream on a chocolate brioche concealing pieces of poached prune. The cellar and its 400 or so references, placed on pebbles to cushion any shocks and guarantee a constant temperature, hide treasures and great discoveries. If you're a fan of verticals, ask head sommelier Axel Dervieux to guide you up the best slopes. Finally, Villa Archange wouldn't be the haven it is without the talent of Maître d'hôtel Éric Descazaux, who leads his troops with remarkable ease.

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