5 places to eat a good pâté en croûte

A symbol of French gastronomy, pâté en croûte is a veritable institution, elegantly combining tradition and refinement. Composed of a savory filling wrapped in a crisp, golden pastry, it appeals to charcuterie lovers and gourmets alike.

The first traces of this dish date back to the Middle Ages, when its crust was used to cook and preserve meat. Later, during the Renaissance, the recipe evolved, with thinner fillings and a butter-based pastry that was now edible. The modern pâté en croûte is thought to have appeared in the 17ᵉ century in the Ain region, under the name L'Oreiller de la Belle Aurore. It is said to have been dreamed up by Claudine Aurore Récamier, who was none other than Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin's mother.

While this emblematic dish may evoke family tables or festive meals, today it finds a place of choice in the finest establishments, where chefs and artisans compete in creativity to revisit this classic. Each year, a world championship is held to determine the best recipe.

For lovers of good pâté en croûte, we've selected five must-try addresses, scattered all over France, where you can enjoy this dish with passion.

Daniel et Denise, Lyon

Daniel et Denise (2 toques) is the establishment of Meilleur Ouvrier de France Joseph Viola. In this Lyonnais "bouchon" dedicated to "canaille cuisine", the chef honors the legendary flavors of French cuisine, including the famous Pâté en Croûte, which earned him the title of World Champion in 2009. The latter is stuffed with duck foie gras and sweetbreads. Joseph Viola even organizes Pâté en Croûte workshops on request, if you'd like to master the intricate art of this French charcuterie.
▶ Where? Daniel et Denise, find the different addresses here.

julien Bouvier

Maison Verot, Paris

Maison Verot is a benchmark charcuterie-caterer in Paris. In addition to its famous ham puff pastry, the company has built its reputation on its range of pies, from the most classic to the most original. Here, for example, you'll find the 2011 world runner-up recipe, a subtle blend of duck foie gras and fine poultry, bound with pig in a shortcrust pastry.e, but also a pâté en croûte with duck, figs and foie gras, or even a recipe combining chicken marinated in Espelette pepper, Perche pig stuffing and spring onions. As the year draws to a close, Maison Verot even unveils an exclusive recipe for a Franc-Comtois pâté en croûte with Morteau sausage, melted Comté cheese and Jura white wine jelly.
▶ Where? Maison Verot, find the different addresses here.

lucie Sassiat

La Femme du Boucher, Marseille

La Femme du Boucher (2 toques) in Marseille, is the restaurant of chef Laëtitia Visse. In her bistro, this passionate chef offers a cuisine of meats, offal and charcuterie, including the famous pâté en croûte. "I've been working seriously on it for two years, and it's a demanding discipline! There are so many reasons to miss the mark (overcooked pastry, underdense filling, hat opening during cooking, etc.). But that's what makes it so exciting! And after being massacred by the supermarkets, it's finally regaining its letters of nobility", rejoices Laëtitia Visse, who perfected her technique with Frédéric Le Guen-Geffroy and Christophe Tourneux, "my two pillars of charcuterie". In early November, the young chef published a book entitled "Le Pâté de Nos Rêves" (The Pâté of Our Dreams), published by First Editions, to unveil this unique art to the general public. "For the person who makes it, it's a good way of stopping time, because it deserves to be taken very seriously every step of the way. It's also an extremely effective antidepressant! In short, pâté has a special place in my heart and in my restaurant. I spend hours on it, and the result is worth it: people come in part for it. You can't cheat on the quality of the products."

• Where? La Femme du Boucher, 10 rue de Village, 13006 Marseille
• See our review of La Femme du Boucher

dR

Café Brunet, Annecy-le-Vieux

Café Brunet (1 toque), nestled in an ancestral 19th-century mansion in the heart of Annecy-le-Vieux, is the ideal place to enjoy traditional dishes such as oeufs meurette, andouillette or farm poultry. But this warm and inviting place, whose mother house is none other than Le Clos des Sens (3 toques), also offers an excellent pâté en croûte, to be devoured without moderation!

• Where to eat? Café Brunet, 18 Place Gabriel Fauré, 74940 Annecy
• See our review of Café Brunet

Les Parisiens, in Paris

The Pavillon Faubourg Saint-Germain is the setting for Les Parisiens restaurant, whose menu was written by chef Thibault Sombardier. On the menu: dishes that pay homage to bourgeois cuisine, such as frog legs, snail tart and pâté en croûte with foie gras and pistachio duck, for a gourmet and refined appetizer.

• Where to eat Les Parisiens, Pavillon Faubourg Saint-Germain, 1 rue du Pré aux Clercs, 75007 Paris
• See our review of Les Parisiens