Forgotten fish: an underestimated treasure for our plates and our oceans
Christopher Coutanceau, chef-fisherman in La Rochelle, explains why we should abandon salmon and cod for "less noble" species such as horse mackerel and sardines.
Christopher Coutanceau, 4-toque Gault&Millau chef and passionate campaigner for the preservation of the oceans, invites us to rethink our consumption of fish. At his eponymous restaurant in La Rochelle, he advocates sustainable cuisine, moving away from so-called noble species such as sea bass and turbot, to give pride of place to lesser-known but equally tasty fish: sardines, horse mackerel, elders and other neglected species.
To help consumers turn more to these lesser-rated but delicious fish, he shares his convictions on the importance of diversifying our marine diet to preserve ecosystems and improve our health. " We're walking on our heads: salmon and cod dominate the menu, even though they're often imported and harmful to both our oceans and our bodies," he laments.
Blue fish: a concentrate of health
Blue fish, such as mackerel, sardines and anchovies, are champions of sustainability and nutrition. They are rich in omega-3 and vitamins (B4, B5, B6), and their short life cycle makes them less likely to accumulate pollutants such as lead or mercury.
Christopher Coutanceau insists on the importance of respecting seasonality: " Just as we make wine from ripe grapes, we should cook fish when it's at its peak. "These modest fish offer a myriad of culinary possibilities:
- Sardines : marinated, grilled or simply snacked on a plancha, they shine for their simplicity and intense flavor.
- Anchovies: a delicate but versatile product, perfect for marinating, frying or lightly smoking over a wood fire.
- Mackerel: delicious whole en papillote or caramelized a la plancha, it also lends itself to escabeche for an explosion of flavors.
Forgotten fish: the little-known treasures of our coasts
Other species deserve a place of choice on our plates, as much for their taste as for their contribution to sustainable fishing.
- Horse mackerel : often scorned and considered a fish "for cats", it is nevertheless prized in Japan, where it can fetch exorbitant prices. "Raw, it's an exceptional fish. Just don't cook it, or you'll be disappointed. "
- Poca Luz: this fish, which is rarely caught in our waters, is abundant and offers extremely fine flesh. Fragile, it requires precise cooking to reveal its full potential.
- La vieille: nicknamed the "grouper of the Atlantic", its fine flesh is ideal raw or cooked. What's more, its stocks are doing well, making it an environmentally-friendly and tasty choice.
Shellfish: unsuspected allies
In addition to fish, shellfish such as cockles, mussels and razor clams are excellent sources of nutrients. For example, cockles gathered on our coasts can be simply sautéed in butter with lemon and dill for a refined, sustainable dish.
Rethinking the way we consume
Christopher Coutanceau's message is clear: we urgently need to diversify our marine consumption. " Eating as wildly as possible and varying species, as we do with vegetables, is essential for preserving the oceans. It's also good for our dietary balance. The human body is like a car: if you put the wrong petrol in it, it breaks down. "He also encourages consumers to opt for seasonal fish and to ensure that they are not in the breeding season, to give the species time to regenerate, but also to have fish that is simply better and less fibrous.
Finally, he invites consumers to work with fishmongers who respect natural cycles and adopt a global approach, from head to tail. For every fish, no matter how modest, harbors an unsuspected wealth.
By following these precepts, we could not only preserve our oceans, but also rediscover an authentic, flavorful marine gastronomy.
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