International
Young Talent 2017 restaurants (2/3)
Continuation of the discovery of the restaurants of our Young Talents elected in the Guide France 2017.
Takashi Kinoshita - Château de Courban (Courban)
This beautiful hotel-spa, inaugurated in 2010 after more than 10 years of renovation work, needed a chef to match its high standards. The Vandendriessche family chose the young Takashi Kinoshita, whose delicate work perfectly matches the ambience of the premises: king prawn and eggplant tempura, daikon wakame salad, yuzu chioggia, roasted Brittany blue lobster, garden green beans, chanterelles and dried apricots, before concluding with a lovely dessert by pastry chef Sae Hasegawa. A little-known address with obvious potential.
Château de Courban
7 rue du Lavoir 21520 Courban Read our review
Agata Felluga - Jour de Fête (Strasbourg)
In the Krutenau district, a pretty, modern restaurant that transforms a simple meal into a festive occasion. The atmosphere is young and lively, and the food is of the same mold, with the right products, the right preparations, the right gesture and the right zest: grilled octopus with tomato confit, monkfish with white beans, fennel and carrots in curry sauce, duck breast with quinoa, shiitake and oyster mushrooms, pannacotta with roasted blueberries and apricots. Agata Felluga, ex-Astrance, Senderens and Inaki's second at Châteaubriand, follows in the Parisian vein of daring combinations of multiple ingredients, but all works well with a smile and an interesting selection of contemporary wines.
More info
Jour de Fête
6, rue Sainte-Catherine 67000 Strasbourg
Read our review
Simon Horwitz - Elmer (Paris 3)
@PascalMénard
Simon Horwitz took his time before setting up his first business. At just 30 years of age, with his (very) solid training (Sylvestre Wahid at Baumanière for 3 years, Pierre Gagnaire...), his cuisine is already showing real maturity. Where too many of his colleagues are little more than copyists, painstakingly producing a menu of slash dishes that inevitably includes ceviche and rum baba, this former Bertrand Grébaut easily rises above the fray, because his cuisine, modern and admittedly a little fashionable too, is above all witty and full of character. His smoked herring, earth pear (a cousin of Jerusalem artichoke) with seaweed, faisselle and radish is a model of balance, between acidity and delicacy, while his lightly smoked line hake, smoked butternutThe desserts, including an original and unstoppable orange and sweet potato, banana and semi-salted caramel, confirm that this is one of the finest Parisian restaurants of this winter. The cellar plays on the register of natural wines, the service is, unsurprisingly, both cool and smiling, and the decor is perfectly in keeping with the theme: open kitchen with its clearly visible spit where poultry is browning, a large "table d'hôtes" in the center, raw wood, contemporary lighting fixtures and Miniforms chairs...
Elmer
30 rue Notre Dame de Nazareth 75003 Paris |République ou Temple
Bruno Poret - La Galerie (Rouen)
The reasons for the success of this restaurant, certainly well placed on the threshold of the Old Market, could be a mystery to outsiders. The fillet of beef and turbot on the €36 menu, which makes a special effort to keep prices low, provide an answer. The work of Bruno Poret, formerly trained at Warin's, is another, in a menu where the long-winded titles are proof of the meticulous attention to detail in a €23 menu offering a wide choice of classic dishes dressed up as Normans like, with a bit of frills and attention to detail. After all, it doesn't really matter, since the shrimp tartare and steamed cod with shellfish and vegetables are worthy of their toques, and even more so the apricot mascarpone dessert with faisselle ice cream. What's decisive, however, is the sincerity and enthusiasm of this young couple, Elisabeth, in the dining room, sometimes single-handedly managing the 40 covers with disarming empathy. "She's so nice, it makes you want to come back," confides one lady to her husband as she leaves. And that says it all... All that's left to do now is to develop the cellar, which for the moment is little more than a wine merchant.
La Galerie
4 rue Sainte Croix des Pelletiers 76000 Rouen
Damien Cadéi - D'Cadéi (Villeneuve-Tolosane)
A modern restaurant in the heart of the village, five minutes from Empalot and Jean-Jaurès University. Damien Cadéi is full of energy and good ideas, and his cooking is just like him: strong roots, know-how and personality. We're convinced by the lamb sweetbreads in crepinette with crunchy broad beans and a cloud of dry-cured ham, the mullet cooked in yuzu juice with salicornia salad and crispy spring onions, or the pure cassoulet confit of duck, pork and Toulouse sausage on the €35 menu. A first toque and our encouragement. A well-mixed cellar, with a few trendy winemakers and reference labels.
D'Cadéi
8 rue de l'Hôtel de Ville 31270 Villeneuve Tolosane
Thomas Lorieux - Osé (Angers)
A tidy Zen room, a new restaurant with a slightly pompous name, but well worth the effort. The team is friendly and full of enthusiasm, and the current menu offers a spontaneous, flavorful experience: carrot tatin, chard with new garlic and beet caramel, papillote of pollack with herb vegetable tian, veal parmentier with sweet potato and zucchini, fennel and pineapple crumble with mango coulis.
Osé
19 rue Toussaint 49100 Angers
Florian Descours - La Boria (Privas)
What a joy it is to find a restaurant like this, when it's still almost unknown. Opened at the end of 2014 by a small band of close-knit friends, this Boria throws a paving stone into the all-too-quiet gastronomic pond of the little Ardèche prefecture. With its contemporary bistro-style decor, ever-present smiles from the staff and fresh, modern dishes, the program is as simple as it is effective. At the helm is Florian Descours, a young chef from the Ardèche who did quite a bit of travelling before opening his first business, and whose craft is finally coming into its own: trout confit à la fumée avocats brûlés et velouté de roquette, asparagus from Ardèche oseille, fresh goat's cheese from Areilladou and pancetta from the plateau in a fine tartelette, back of wild cod confit à l'huile de safran sea urchin pulp and étrille jus.sea urchin pulp and currant juice with turmeric, kid (from a local producer) gently cooked and served with toast and artichokes en barigoule, each plate is chiseled and balanced, with precise presentation and maximum pleasure. Special mention also goes to the excellent pastry chef and his Ardèche strawberries, grapefruit and verbena pulp macaroon, a dessert that confirms two well-deserved toques. A clever cellar that also honors local production. To be discovered as a matter of urgency.
La Boria
3 cours du Palais 07000 Privas
Yannick Guth - Chez Guth (Steige)
@frans_s -
Set on a hillside, this former farmhouse inn is gradually being transformed into a mountain restaurant for discerning gourmets by Emmanuelle David and Yannick Guth. A promising program for this enthusiastic young couple: goat enclosure, wild herb planters, wooded mountain setting, terrace overlooking the Val de Villé. An alumnus of Marc Haeberlin, Sébastien Sevellec at La Villa in Calvi and Emmanuel Renaut at Flocons de Sel, Yannick Guth's cuisine is in tune with the environment: L'Estivale is a fresh combination of cucumber, watermelon, smoked eel, feta and blueberry; the egg, whose fatty yolk amplifies the combination of potato and smoke; or the long-cooked veal knuckle, surrounded by a coat of garden herbs (really useful?), and enhanced by the anchovy. We finish with strawberry, crunch and parsley panna cotta, a perfect match for Sarawak black pepper ice cream. Each menu option relates to a different altitude and can be accompanied by wines by the glass, sometimes served a little young.
Chez Guth
5A rue du Bas des Monts 67200 Steige
Pierre-Arnaud Dupont - Pier Restaurant (Valenciennes)
Pierre-Arnaud Dupont richly deserves the Jeune Talent title he earned at the last Gault&Millau Tour. With nerve and style. In his little 10m2 lazarette, he single-handedly prepares plates for 20 diners, with a focus on fine produce, particularly beef from the finest breeds, Charolais, Aubrac and even Kobé. To the sound of gentle country music, the lively dining room is enlivened by the kindness and smile of Anaïs, and the ambience is matched by well-prepared dishes such as escargots de Vieux Condéa Grand Large plate where every ingredient (razor clams, langoustines, scallops, but also the right winter vegetables) is cooked just right, before an impeccable baba. The second chef's hat is not far off, and we offer our encouragement. The cellar could do with a little more research into small bottles.
More info
Pier Restaurant
75 rue de Paris 59300 Valenciennes
More info
Rémy Escale-Benedeyt - L'Entre-Deux (Biarritz)
We knew him at Zoko Moko, and now he's partnered with his childhood friend Jean Van de Velde in the former Sissinou. Rémy Escale, who offers a cuisine somewhere between gastro and bistro (hence the name), and his sidekick did well to take their time before settling in Biarritz. Their restaurant, which opened at the beginning of spring, is always busy, because this "carte blanche" cuisine, which responds to the very fashionable principle of the "hidden imposed", shows itself at its best every day, immediately winning two toques. A freewheeling cuisine, fine produce, reasonable prices, good humor - in short, a recipe for success.
L'Entre-Deux
5 avenue Foch 64200 Biarritz
The Jeunes talents restos part 1, it's here.
Texts: Guide France 2017.
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