Kouglof, its history and our good addresses

Its history spans Poland, Germany, Austria and Alsace, which explains its multiple spellings: kougelhopf or kouglof. It first appeared in Alsace in the 18th century, probably thanks to the pastry chefs of King Stanislas of Lorraine. Still baked in traditional Alsatian clay molds, the brioche-like dough is enriched with raisins macerated in a local spirit, and whole almonds are inserted in the bottom of the mold before baking. A classic that's been reinterpreted time and again.

Olivier Nasti, Levain, Boulangerie du Chambard, Kaysersberg

Head baker Lucas gets down to it every morning. His sourdough recipe is reworked with more flaked almonds. "The grapes macerate in Gewurztraminer marc. There's also a touch of marc in the syrup that coats the kougelhopfs after baking," explains the baker. The famous Alsatian brioche is produced year-round in three sizes, and also comes in a savory version with country bacon and walnuts. A detour to Alsace is a must!

• Where to buy? Rue du Tir, 68240 Kaysersberg
• www.lechambard.fr/boulangerie

ilya KAGAN - ilyafoodstories

Joël Defives, Boulangerie Baptiste, Paris

A kouglof prepared on natural sourdough by the MOF baker. "I prepare the dough the day before, because kouglof requires a long fermentation process. What's different about traditional kouglof is that I dip it in a syrup like a Baba to give it softness and conservation. I also add a little honey and fermented dough to the dough to give it strength", explains Joël Defives. There's no alcohol here, just grapes macerated in plain syrup. On top, as tradition dictates, are whole, unhulled almonds and a touch of powdered sugar. A kouglof available all year round, exclusively at weekends.

• Where? 17 Rue des Moines, 75017 Paris
• www.boulangeriebaptiste.fr

jDefives - DR

Christine Ferber, Maison Ferber, Niedermorschwihr

"My father made his first iced kouglof in 1963, but he didn't patent it. Today, everyone in the region makes it in their own way. Ours, whose recipe is unchanged, is made with lead ice cream - a creamy custard flavored with alcohol - and raisins. and grapes macerated in Alsatian stone fruit alcohol (quetsche, cherry, morello cherry, mirabelle) and a little Kirsch. "says Christine Ferber. To mimic the look of a traditional Kouglof, it is sprinkled with bitter cocoa powder. To taste it is to adopt it!

• Where? 18 Rue des Trois Epis, 68230 Niedermorschwihr
• www.christineferber.com

aude BOISSAYE - Bernhard Winkelmann

Stéphane Vandermeersch, Boulangerie Vandermeersch, Paris

A brioche-type dough prepared over three days to knead, rest and then bake in terracotta molds from the Alsatian potters' village of Soufflenheim. "In my interpretation, I use orange blossom for the appliance, but above all for soaking. After baking, the kouglofs are soaked in clarified butter and then in orange blossom syrup." For the finishing touch, Stéphane Vandermeersch alternates almonds and hazelnuts on the top of the kouglof, and adds a little powdered sugar for larger pieces. Everything here is handmade, so much so that kouglofs are sold by weight! don't miss the savory version, with chorizo, cherry tomatoes, herbes de Provence and olives.

• Where? 278 Av. Daumesnil, 75012 Paris
• www.patisserie-vandermeersch.com

© DR

Pascal Hainigue Auberge de l'Ill, Illhaeusern

Pascal Hainigue, head pastry chef at the Auberge de l'Ill (Gault&Millau Académie), makes his kouglof the old-fashioned way: "In Alsace, you learn the recipe from an early age. So mine is traditional: the grapes are macerated in Gewurztraminer marc. The dough is then baked in the region's terracotta molds with almonds on top. Here, Kouglof can be eaten at any time of day, including as an aperitif, in sweet or even savoury versions." Sprinkled with powdered sugar, its texture is brioche-like and firm. And there's no question of changing the recipe!

• Where? 2 Rue de Collonges au Mont d'Or, 68970 Illhaeusern
• www.auberge-de-l-ill.com

hugo Loisel - Lucas MULLER